Sweden has always been a very special country in my book with its peculiar machines, and the Viggen is no exception. For the longest time the only kit in the scale has been the Heller one, so when Special Hobby announced their joint project with Tarangus I was excited. As I had seen a two-seater flying some time before that – and was suitable impressed by both appearance and performance – I opted to purchase the twin pack, attracted by the number of versions AND the photo book.
The box is BIG, in fact it is bigger than most 48th kits I have, as well as some 35th scale kit boxes in my collection. There are 2 transparent bags with parts, 2 instruction booklets (1 for each the single and double seater), a decal sheet, and the book. The last 2 items are fixed within the box with cardboard inserts, stapled to the box sides. Except for the instructions all items are packed in separate plastic bags.
The Type 87 is a mobile air defense system, armed with two 35mm automatic Oerlikon cannons. While very similar to the German Gepard SPAAG it uses the Type 74 tank’s chassis as a base, and local radar and other systems.
As my father served in an air defense unit – such systems have always fascinated me, and when the opportunity came up I ordered this kit directly from Japan.
Fujimi tooled the Type 87 SPAAG in 2018, and offers 2 kits in 1 box with a number of decal options included in the sheer – you can build 23 individual machines from 7 different outfits. (Yes, I realize it’s the same camo scheme!) Decals appear well-printed, in register, with saturated color, and even the gradient on the eagle head decal is “smooth”. The decal film is cropped close to the borders of each design, so I don’t think you’d need to trim it. Despite the overall flat surfaces I sure hope the Fujimi decals will work properly – I’ve never dealt with them to date.
The Panther is one of the most recognizable tanks of WWII, right up there with the slow and boxy but feared Tiger I. With ~6,000 examples per Wikipedia the Panther is the third most produced tracked German AFV after the Stug III (9,408 built), and the workhorse of Panzerwaffe, the Pz IV (8,298 made).
No wonder that number of kits on the market follows closely the other 2 vehicles. Naturally there are various renditions of the vehicle and its details, with the tracks varying from flat to highly detailed. Below are a few examples from 6 different kits:
a Zvezda Ausf D, which I’ve previously featured here and here.
a Zimmerit-clad Dragon Ausf G previously see here and here.
a late Ausf A again of DML pedigree.
a Trumpeter Late production Jagdpanther
an ESCI early Jagdpanther in Italeri box (the only one on the market with early engine deck)
Revell’s early/late Jagdpanther combo kit 03111
I’ve also included 2 resin sets for comparison: early and late tracks from OKB Grigorov. Here’s the full line up:
Cast – in order of appearance (left to right) and track width:
The Jagdtiger was a last-ditch weapon, a self-propelled anti-tank bunker, that had zero impact on the outcome of WWII. Regardless, a lot of model companies offer both variants of this machine. My main reason for getting the Trumpeter set with Porsche suspension was the small number of parts and the related ease of construction. It promised a rather uninvolved build as I imagined a straight OOB project done over the weekend. Yeah, right 😀
The first session was promising, I managed to remove the main components from the sprues, clean up and assemble the bogies in a couple of hours. Instead of going full AMS I decided to plug the locating holes for the spare track hangers, and go “bald”.
After toying with the idea of replacing the molded-on tools I decided against it, as that would severely affect the Zimmerit coat. I really wasn’t impressed by the molded-on Zim either, but elected to keep it. Still, I cut off the vision blocks/guards (molded solid) and built new guards instead.
The gun mantled was stippled with diluted Basic Tamiya putty to simulate the cast texture, then lightly sanded. The gun barrel was replaced with a turned aluminum one from RB models.
My first thought about the Trumpeter tracks was “That’ll do for a quick build.” But then I looked up some build reviews and wasn’t so convinced anymore. Comparison with the OKB Tiger II tracks is below.
As you can see the kit track is missing the internal set of guide teeth, plus the level of detail on the resin one is… a bit higher dare I say?
I also used the corresponding sprocket set to save myself some trouble on adjusting the kit sprocket to fit the aftermarket tracks. I was rather pleased with how the replacements look. To add a bit more character I split out the gun support ring, and re-glued it as if the entire suport was just dropped rather than neatly stowed around the front light (as directed in the instructions).
I used some of the mesh screens from the Flyhawk King Tiger PE detail set on the engine deck to at least partially cover the inverted grills Trumpeter provides.
Continuing with the “KISS” approach I went for the monochromatic Dunkelgelb paint job, and the decals from the Revell Hummel. A bit of mud using colorized wood putty, and a simulated stripped paint in the area where the gun support would wrap around the barrel complete the build.
Details are highlighted with a dark brown wash.
Overall the Trumpeter Jagdtiger has been an easy, even pleasant build. The parts fit well, and if you go with the spare tracks on the superstructure – it will require no filling at all. Unless you decide to replace parts/details I am sure it can be built and finished in a day. Its main weakness are the tracks, which – even on a weekend build – are worth replacing with an aftermarket set. This will add a bit more detail and character to the rather boxy appearance of this massive machine.read more
There was only ever one E-100 chassis built, but this project for super heavy armored vehicle continues to capture modeller minds across the world in all scales. Years ago the only 1/72 kit was the Dragon one, which went missing for nearly a decade. When re-released it disappeared from the market in 2 (two days).
Then along come Trumpeter and Modelcollect, and here we are with two more competitively priced 1/72 kits.
What’s common for all 3 of them? The tracks are far from good. Negative experience with DS tracks and the underwhelming releases from the younger competitors drove my interest to, well, OKB, and their E-100 resin track set.
The pack contains 6 light grey lengths of E-100 tracks on the casting block. Here are a few images to compare with the Modelcollect E-100 track (in black). I’m planning to build the E-100 chassis with its tracks exposed, so the track will add the WOW! to the otherwise bland vehicle.
The OKB track will require some careful separation and cleanup of the excess resin (note this is probably on my example only as I’ve seen other sets reviewed and they are OK), but the extra detail is just worth it. Note diagonal detail on track ridges on the resin part, the better defined individual links and segments.
A comparison between the “paddle” details:
And finally – check the guide teeth of the kit track vs the resin replacement.
The OKB E-100 tracks are highly recommended for your E-100 projects!read more
The “King Tiger” tiger needs no introduction, and there’s hardly a company that has not issued a kit of it. While the angles and sizes of various armor plates would rarely be the subject of scrutiny in 1/72 (and even less often are corrected on models), tracks remain an important detail of the kits.
There are several types, including multiple patterns of the wider “combat” and narrower “transport” ones – a situation similar to the first generation of Tiger tanks.
I will compare the tracks of the 3 most easily accessible kits of the production model: the Revell, Dragon and Trumpeter ones, with OKB Grigorov’s Kgs26/800/300 resin track. First – “mug shot” of the contenders.
Revell tracks are “link and length” hard plastic tracks, Dragon offers their favorite DS contraptions (that were stuck to each other when I removed them from their original plastic packaging), and the “rubber”, “can be glued with model glue” Trumpeter black tracks.
Two more shots – at a lower angle, and directly above, so you can judge the face detail by yourselves.
To me personally the companies using softer material – Dragon and Trumpeter – are always on the losing side due to the properties of the medium they chose. You can see the thick borders of the square apertures/track patters on the 2 manufacturers. The Revell tracks seem a degree more delicate. However they are visually narrower than the rest of the gang.
OKB, Dragon: 11.4mm
Scaling down the actual width of 800mm shows the 1/72 track should be about 11.1mm wide, so we do not have a perfect solution.
Let’s see how track patterns compare with the real thing.
Looks like all manufacturers got the basics of the pattern, with the Trumpeter track showing the most oversized detail, followed by DML and Revell’s simplifications.
Let’s turn the tracks over and check the other side.
I wouldn’t call this an even fight because:
Trumpeter tracks have no inside detail aside from the thick guiding teeth,
Revell only has half the hinge lines,
Dragon seems to be closest, but is still missing the additional openings of the “toothy” link.
Let’s have a guiding teeth profile comparison real quick:
Note the simplified tooth profile on the Revell track, and that instead of thinner “neck” between its two edges the teeth on the Dragon track are simply cut down to an overscale effect similar to what you’d see on Leopard 2 tracks.
My personal favorite among the kit options would be the Revell track, as it’s made of quality, durable polystyrene. True, it’s fiddlier to put together, and it does have simplified details, but you know it will be in the box in the same state 10 years later and in your display case for another 30 when done.
However availability and durability is sometimes not enough, and that is when OKB aftermarket sets for King Tiger come in handy. As a result all my KTs are getting the resin treatment, which I would recommend to you as well.read more
Big machines have always been a thing in the USSR, and that is definitily true for both aircraft and tanks before WWII. In April 1941 some 20 proposals for a super heavy tank competed within the Kotin design bureau. War interrupted this madhouse, all guns built for the design were destroyed. However since men continue to obsess with heavy tanks that were never built in metal – what you will see below is the winning one in resin.
On to the sturdy cardboard box keeping the parts safe.
Inside you will find zip-lock bags with parts, all neatly tucked into a large sheet of bubble wrap, and the typical minimalistic instructions on a single folded sheet.
While the kit is not branded as “heavy metal” or “Hard-o-big” as e.g. the SU-122-54, this KV-4 can’t be considered not as “simplified” either. The kit fenders alone are nearly 11cm long, and with 8 road wheels per side, separate suspension arms, bump stops, return rollers and what have you, there’s still some 150 parts in the trademark grey resin.
Something I am not used to in OKG kits is the minimal number of PE parts – just 12 of them in a small shiny fret, all supports for the fenders with hex bolthead detail. Naturally – you will need to fold them 🙂
These are glued to the sides of the 1-piece upper hull, which has the driver, engine and transmission hatches molded shut. It is by far the largest and longest part in the kit.
There are openings for the main turret and the engine air intakes, which are supplied as separate parts.
There is no mesh or PE parts to cover the openings in the intakes themselves.
Next in line is the hull pan with numerous openings and locations for various parts on the sides, and positions for the tow hooks at either end.
Admittedly I have no idea what could tow the 80+ ton behemoth other than another such tank with no turret – or a “Russian troyka” of 3 turretless KV-1s, attached to a monstrous tow bar.
There are 4 equipment bins that sit on top of the fenders. They are cast hollow, but closed, and are supplied as individual parts with raised hinge detail and recessed hinge line:
An item you can’t miss is the monstrous main turret, complete with periscopes, fan detail, armored gun sight housings, detailed hatches.
Nice detail on the mantlet, too: the armored bolts with conical heads are beautifully reproduced.
You’ve already noticed the turret is hollow. The large circular opening on the top is the base for a secondary turret armed with a DT machine gun. The smaller turret completely covers the ring bolt detail when installed, but you’ll know it’s there 😉
The kit includes the secondary turret with a DT machinegun, as well as open-bore resin barrels for both the 107mm and the 45mm gun.
While the 1-piece resin casting already looks good enough and will require minimal cleanup due to the minimum attachment points to the casting stub, OKB Grigorov offers a machined brass 107mm ZiS-6 gun barrel as well. The turned barrel is smooth inside and out, no visible tracks from the lathe knife’s point, and is a drop-fit replacement of the resin one. OKB has already offered several opportunities to get the metal barrel for free with your KV-4 order.
The running gear of the kit is where the bulk of the parts is. Behold:
The suspension arms for the roadwheels are separate parts. Note the arms are handed (different parts for left and right side of the hull), so do check the fit before gluing these in place. The circular pin obviously fits in the wheels themselves, while the square key is intended to lock the arm into position in the hull.
Of curse you can simply drill out the opening for that key and have the running gear posed.
Other than the suspension arm each roadwheel corresponds to a bump stop – an assembly that is intended to limit the travel of said arm so the tank does not lie flat on its belly. Parts are delicate and highly detailed, take a look:
Next you have the return rollers, 4 on each side, as well as their bases that need to be glued to the hull tub first.
You can clearly see the bolt detail on both part types.
Sprockets – your usual large KV two-part affair with a massive center cap and a lot of bolts on the perimeter.
The parts on the second image are the mud scrapes – these were intended to remove the mud deposits accumulating inside the massive sprocket.
Next are the idlers, the track tension adjustment mechanisms and their bases. You can actually see the bolt thread on the tensioner parts.
Additional details: towing and lifting hooks, opened KV exhaust.
DT machninegun tips (one for the bow gunner, and another for the small turret up top), lifting hooks for the engine and transmission decks (that will need some work on their openings), transparent resin headlight.
Basically you have everything you need to build this Soviet “paper” super heavy in the box. This is an impressive, very well detailed release, and with the excellent properties of the medium OKB uses it should pose no problem for an experienced modeller to obtain an excellent result.read more
The WWII Panther tank has become a legend mostly based on its looks and long gun rather than its combat record. This has prevented no manufacturer ever from producing a kit of it, and as a result the modeller today has a vast choice of kits to build. Other than the (generally) horrendous tracks the detail that gets your attention the most is the commander’s cupola. Renditions vary, but they are usually molded closed, in soft detail, and with vision blocks having see-thru effect.
Georgi from OKB Grigorov is offering a solution to those problems for your Panther fleets: 2 separate sets of 4 commander cupolas each for the Ausf D and the Ausf A/G, respectively.
The first set is for the earlier Panther Ausf D and has 4 “barrel” type cupolas, with separate hatches made of thin PE, detailed with handles. Note the cupolas feature interior detail – all of the vision blocks are cast on the inside, and you can see the thick glass is surrounded with a ridge, so there’s no need to fight small PE pieces:
The Panther Ausf A/G cupola is cast from transparent resin, so the vision blocks look like glass ones on your model. Note that instead of a solid casting the periscope guards are provided as separate PE details, as is the machine gun ring, and the hook for said machine gun, and the support for the commander’s hatch in the open position.
I tried to show the inside detail, but am afraid that until the detail gets primed – I won’t be able to see everything myself regardless of the light conditions, so apologies for not giving you the full view.
The only detail missing is the grab handle on the hatch’s stub, but if made of PE – it would be too flat as opposed to the circular rod on the actual tank.read more
You get the regular zip-lock bag with paper header, and 6 lengths of track inside:
Then you start looking at the detail, and there’s a lot of it to enjoy:
The steel wheels can be used on the front bogeys on Pz IV ausf H and J, and related late-war vehicles like Jagdpanzer IV, Brummbär, or any other damaged & repaired, imaginary, etc. vehicle on the chassis you can equip with those wheels in random positions or hang on the spare rack.read more
In the past couple of weeks I’ve reviewed, built and now completed a pre-production example of OKB Grigorov’s first full plastic kit, the US light tank M24 Chaffee.
As I have demonstrated in the posts so far, the pre-release communication from the company and some of its friends and loyal customers has been 100% correct: what you see is a complete plastic kit with high level of detail, representing particular features of the actual vehicle, and with minimal compromise with fidelity despite the small scale.
I am particularly pleased with the way the upper hull rests over the hull tub – just like on the real vehicle. The kit parts mostly self-align, so despite the seemingly complicated breakdown my pre-production sample does not “limp”, and stands on all its 10 road wheels. Impressively, I only removed flash from 3 parts, meaning the factory is very well versed in kit molding. The sprue gates on parts, including individual track links, are really thin and easy to clean up. Yes, there have been some molding lines (you can see them on my idler wheels) you may have to take care of, but nothing you have not done before.
You can see bolts, panel join lines, hatches, periscopes, cooling louvres, etc. are all present, as are details such as the cooling vents of the two 30 cal barrels. The M2 on the turret is possibly the best in the scale I’ve encountered so far. Track segments and individual links are thin and feature uniform detail. Perhaps the only item I would replace are the headlamp guards, which are already available in the PE set from the previous article.
Without further ado – the finished article. Note I have not modified stock parts aside from drilling the gun barrel and cutting out the rear left segment of the side skirt, which was not completely molded on my sample. As no decals were available in my sample – I did not apply any.
Here is the M24 with its closest competitor (in my view) – a Pz III. This is an Ausf. L by DML I built a few years ago.
You can see the M24 is about the same size, but carries a 75mm (vs 50 on the Pz III) and an extra heavy MG.
In conclusion the kit has been a pleasure to build (it took me 3 evenings to assemble and a weekend to paint), and my next project would be the Mammoth edition, with all metal parts available from OKB.read more